Test and evaluation of surf forecasting model
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Authors
Cacina, Nasuh
Subjects
surf
bore formulation
wave height
longshore currents
bore formulation
wave height
longshore currents
Advisors
Thornton, Edward B.
Date of Issue
1989-09
Date
Publisher
Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
Language
en_US
Abstract
A model forecasting the wave height and the longshore current distribution inside
the surf zone based on the formulations by Thornton and Guza (1983), (1986), are applied
to an extensive set of both laboratory and field data for the purposes of testing and
modification. The models are tested on planar beaches as well as barred beaches for a
variety of wave conditions.
The wave transformation model is based on solving the energy flux equation using
a bore dissipation mechanism and describing the random wave heights with the Rayleigh
distribution. The two model parameters B and y, where B describes the amount of foam
of a breaking wave and y is the proportionality constant which relates the rms wave
height to the water depth, are combined into a single parameter BG. The combined
parameter BG is shown to be a function of deep water surf similarity parameter. Applied
to the present data sets, the rms error of the measured wave height and the model
predicted wave height was usually less than 9°/ b and ranged from 1.5% to 15.7% with
a mean of 5.3% and a standard deviation of 3.1% for the whole 74 data sets. The
wave transformation model is highly robust in describing the wave height distribution in
the surf zone.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Physical Oceanography
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School
Identifiers
NPS Report Number
Sponsors
Funder
Format
41 p.
Citation
Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.