Field observations of wave runup on a sand beach.
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Authors
Hoernemann, Michael John.
Subjects
Advisors
Thompson, Warren C.
Date of Issue
1967
Date
Publisher
Monterey, California. U.S. Naval Postgraduate School
Language
en_US
Abstract
Six sets of field measurements of runup resulting from both wind
waves and swell were made on a uniform sand beach. Waves were recorded
simultaneously directly offshore at a point outside the surf zone. Each
individual runup was correlated with a specific wave, using a traveltime
plot. Runup occurrences were always found to be fewer in number
than wave occurrences, particularly when wind waves were present. Large
variations in the runup resulting from waves of a given height were
found to exist. These variations in height and ratio of runup to waves
were caused in large part by the interaction of successive foam lines.
Interaction occurred in the form of retardation by backwash of preceding
waves, overtaking by a following foam line, and overriding by a small
unbroken wave. It is concluded that the complicated nature of runup resulting
from ordinary sea and swell makes it difficult to predict runup
accurately from laboratory studies.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Oceanography