Infragravity waves on the continental shelf
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Authors
Evangelidis, Dimitrios
Subjects
Infragravity waves
Surf beat
Continental shelf
Ocean surface waves
Surf beat
Continental shelf
Ocean surface waves
Advisors
Herbers, Thomas H.C.
Date of Issue
1996-06
Date
June 1996
Publisher
Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
Language
en_US
Abstract
The variability of infragravity frequency (0.004-0.04 Hz) motions on a wide continental shelf was examined with data from a 100km long transect of bottom pressure recorders extending from the beach (6m depth) to the shelf break (87m depth) near Duck, North Carolina. The observed infragravity motions are a mixture of forced waves, phase coupled to local wave groups, and (uncoupled) free waves. Although the contribution of forced waves to the infragravity energy increases with both increasing swell energy and decreasing water depth, the shelf is usually dominated by free waves. The observed free waves are predominantly radiated from nearby beaches. The strong attenuation of infragravity waves observed across the inner shelf is primarily the result of refractive trapping and is well described by a WKB model. Across the flatter, irregular outer shelf the observed attenuation is weaker but increases with increasing swell energy, suggesting that significant damping occurs on the shelf during storms, consistent with earlier studies. At the deepest instrumented sites, weaker correlations between infragravity and swell energy levels, and weaker depth dependence of infragravity energy levels are observed, suggesting that remotely generated waves are important seaward of the shelf break.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Oceanography
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School
Identifiers
NPS Report Number
Sponsors
Funder
Format
41 p.
Citation
Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
Rights
Copyright is reserved by the copyright owner