Surf zone wave kinematics
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Authors
Bub, Frank Lee
Subjects
Advisors
Thornton, Edward B.
Date of Issue
1974-09
Date
Publisher
Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
Language
en_US
Abstract
Measurements of three wave surface profiles in a line
perpendicular to the beach extending across the breaker line
and a set of horizontal and vertical water particle velocities
at the breaker line were taken in a mild surf and spilling
type breakers. The application of a linear wave theory
transfer function to the surface profile spectrum resulted
in a calculation of the horizontal water particle velocity
spectrum which was 13 percent lower than the measured
spectrum peak and showed a phase five degrees ahead of the
measured horizontal water particle velocity. Celerity
calculations between adjacent wave profiles over the coherent
frequency range of the spectra showed that the wave phase
speed was not frequency dependent and was predictable by the
linear theory shallow water approximation. The finding that
a dispersive linear wave system predicts the wave kinematics,
while a non-dispersive system was observed, suggested a
contradiction and was discussed. Capacitance wave gages
and electromagnetic flow meters were found to be excellent
instruments for use in the surf zone.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Oceanography
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School
Identifiers
NPS Report Number
Sponsors
Funder
Format
Citation
Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.