Kinematics of surf zone breaking waves : measurement and analysis.
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Authors
Galvin, James Joseph
Subjects
breaking waves
surf zone
waves
surf zone
waves
Advisors
Thornton, Edward B.
Date of Issue
1975-09
Date
September 1975
Publisher
Language
en_US
Abstract
Simultaneous measurements of water surface fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in a line perpendicular to the direction of wave approach extending across the surf zone were taken in varying surf conditions at two locations. The spectral velocities calculated using linear theory as a transfer function underestimated measured values by 79-86% at the peak of the spectrum. The coherence values were generally low indicating non-linear and turbulent conditions. Strong harmonics in the spectra of the waves and water particle velocities further suggest a non-linear system. The theoretical phases computed using linear theory did non accurately predict the observed phases. In general breaking waves can be characterized as a strongly non-linear wave phenomenon. Measured frequency distributions were compared with both Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions by using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. Qualitatively, the Gram-Charlier distribution gave the better fit to the flow velocity data.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Oceanography
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School (U.S.)
Identifiers
NPS Report Number
Sponsors
Funding
Format
Citation
Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
Rights
This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.