Surf zone eddies coupled with rip current morphology

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macmahan_jgr_vlf_sze_2004.pdf (4.48 MB)
Authors
MacMahan, Jamie H.
Reniers, J.H.M.
Thornton, Ed B.
Stanton, Timothy P.
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Date of Issue
2004
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Abstract
Energetic very low frequency (VLF; frequencies <0.004 Hz) surf zone eddies (SZEs) were observed on a beach composed of shore-connected shoals with quasi-periodic ( 125 m) incised rip channels at Sand City, Monterey Bay, California. Incident waves consisted of predominantly shore-normal narrow-banded swell waves. SZEs were located outside the gravity region in alongshore wave number, ky , spaced within the VLF band, and did not appear to exist in higher-frequency bands. The SZEs were significant (Urms,VLF 0.25 m/s) and constant in intensity within the surf zone (shore-connected shoals and rip channels) and rapidly decreased offshore.
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The article of record as published may be located at http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002083
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https://hdl.handle.net/10945/45736
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Oceanography
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The Steep Beach Experiment was funded by the Office of Naval Research (ONR), Coastal Sciences Program under contract N0001402WR20188 and data analysis the National Science Foundation under contract OCE-01366882 and ONR. JM was funded by the National Science Foundation under contract OCE-01366882. AR held a National Research Council-NPS Research Associateship funded by ONR and National Ocean Partnership Program (NOPP-N0001404WR20125). Additional funding for AR was provided by the Dutch Organization of Scientific Research (NWO) under contract DCB.5856.
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MacMahan, J. H., A. J. H. M. Reniers, E. B. Thornton, and T. P. Stanton (2004), Surf zone eddies coupled with rip current morphology, Journal of Geophysical Research, 109, C07004, doi:10.1029/2003JC002083.
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This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.
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