Spectral analyses of waves and associated bottom pressures off Point Sur, California
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Authors
Steele, Boyden Tracy
Subjects
Advisors
Wickham, J.B.
Date of Issue
1968-06
Date
Publisher
Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
Language
en_US
Abstract
A time series of pressure variations was obtained by digitizing
analogue records of bottom pressure, recorded at Pt. Sur, California,
during the periods November, December, and January, 1947-1948, and
June, July, and August, 1949. The power spectrum of the pressure variations
was found via the amplitude spectra obtained by means of the
fast Fourier transform. This spectrum was then smoothed by averaging
over several frequency bands and confidence limits were assigned.
Surface wave power spectra were inferred from the pressure power
spectra and significant wave heights were estimated from these, after
applying a procedure designed to remove noise. Values of significant height on the bottom and at the surface
are displayed in tabular form and plotted versus time for the selected
periods January, 1948, and August, 1949. The spectral patterns of wave
activity show the transient nature of the energy due to storm swell
and local winds.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Oceanography