Daily changes in beach profile and sand texture on Del Monte Beach, California.
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Authors
Harlett, John C.
Subjects
beach
beach erosion
beach sand
Monterey Bay
beach cut and fill
beach erosion
beach sand
Monterey Bay
beach cut and fill
Advisors
Thompson, Warren C.
Date of Issue
1967-06
Date
June 1967
Publisher
Language
en_US
Abstract
Beach-elevation measurements were made and sand samples were collected
along a single profile daily at low tide during the period from
February 1 through March 31, 1967. Wave and tide data were recorded
continuously. The beach, composed of medium- to- fine quartz and feldspar
sand, is well sheltered from wave action.
Wave steepness exerts a great influence on the beach profile. An
equilibrium profile was found to exist for a given wave steepness. As
wave conditions change, the beach profile tends to change toward the
equilibrium profile associated with the new wave steepness. Given an
initial beach profile, the amounts of cut and fill that will occur with
a given change in wave steepness can be predicted.
Textural parameters do not appear to be related to changing wave
conditions in a simple way. Equilibrium values of mean grain size,
sorting, skewness, and kurtosis exist for any given location on the
beach profile. The equilibrium values are apparently independent of
wave conditions.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Meteorology and Oceanography
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School (U.S.)
Identifiers
NPS Report Number
Sponsors
Oceanographer of the Navy
Funder
Format
Citation
Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
Rights
This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.