Publication:
Determination of the deep water arrival direction of ocean swell at a coastal station

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Authors
Austin, Marshall Harlan
Subjects
Advisors
Thompson, Warren C.
Date of Issue
1972
Date
March 1972
Publisher
Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
Language
en_US
Abstract
Three previously unpublished methods for empirically determining deep-water swell direction were examined in this work: triangulation using two widely separated wave sensors, intersection using weather maps and a single wave sensor, and swell point-source estimation from weather maps. The primary objective of each method was to identify a single point source of the swell train produced in an approaching cyclonic storm. Method (1) was not adequately tested, but results as applied to swell from one storm were favorable. Methods (2) and (3), applied to five selected North Pacific storms, gave close agreement on the swell origin time (15 minutes to 6 hours) and source point location (27 to 362 nautical miles), and on swell arrival direction at Monterey, California (0.1 to 5.3 degrees). Methods (1) and (2) give deep-water directions for swell trains that have already arrived, while Method (3) is a prediction method
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Thesis
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Department
Oceanography
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Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
Rights
This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.
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