Test and evaluation of an improved sea, swell and surf program
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Authors
Gill, Michael James
Subjects
Sea
Swell
Surf
Wave prediction
Surf prediction
Breaker
Wind generation
Longshore current
Swell
Surf
Wave prediction
Surf prediction
Breaker
Wind generation
Longshore current
Advisors
Thornton, Edward B.
Wu, Chung Shang
Date of Issue
1985-09
Date
September 1985
Publisher
Language
en_US
Abstract
A sea, swell and surf program is improved, tested and evaluated on a micro-computer (HP-9845B). Sea swell is calculated by a two dimensional spectral model. The energy balance equation is tested for different cases of wind velocities and water depths. Satisfactory agreement is observed between the offshore model and expected wave heights for a15 knot wind, but the model overbuilds
wave energy for a 30 knot wind. Wave transformation is described by a one
dimensional random wave model in which the wave heights are described using the Rayleigh distribution. The obtained solution of the random wave field is used to predict the longshore currents. An empirical formula for determining the breaker parameters is developed , based on beach slope and incident wave steepness. The improved model is
tested using an undulated bathymetry to validate the model physics. The model
outputs of wave height and current are compared with data acquired from a wave tank and natural beaches. The model is found to accurately forecast wave heights, breaker location, breaker type and longshore currents for several sets of conditions. Model limitations are discussed and recommendations for further
improvement are made .
387
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Oceanography
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School (U.S.)
Identifiers
NPS Report Number
Sponsors
Funder
Format
Citation
Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
Rights
This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.