Surface Wave Processes on the Continental Shelf and Beach
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Authors
Herbers, Thomas H.C.
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Advisors
Date of Issue
2003-09-30
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Abstract
There is a growing need for surface wave information on the continental shelf and beach to estimate sea state, and to provide input for models of currents, sediment transport, radar backscatter and aerosol generation. While surface wave spectra in the open ocean evolve slowly over distances of O(100-1000 km), wave properties on the continental shelf and beach are highly variable (typical length scales of 0.1-10 km) owing to a variety of topographic effects (e.g., shoaling, refraction, scattering) and strongly enhanced nonlinear interactions and dissipation. The long-term goal of this research is to develop a better understanding of the physical processes that affect the generation, propagation and dissipation of surface waves in shallow coastal waters, and improve the accuracy of models that predict the transformation of wave properties across the shelf and beach.
Type
Report
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Department
Oceanography (OC)
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School (U.S.)
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Award Numbers: N0001403WR20005, N0001403WR20191
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This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.