Kinematics under wind waves
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Authors
Abreu, Manuel P.
Subjects
Wind Waves
Kinematics
Kinematics
Advisors
Thornton, Edward B.
Stanton, T.P.
Date of Issue
1989-09
Date
Publisher
Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
Language
en_US
Abstract
The ocean near surface kinematics were measured as part of the SAXON experiment
during the period from 5 to 14 October 1988. A growing wave field due to a passing front
with winds up to 17 ms'^ occurred during the first 5 days. A wide range of wind forcing
and wave conditions occured during the measurement period. Two orthogonal components
of the horizontal velocity were measured using an electromagnetic current meter.
The wave directional field was measured using a high resolution 2 meter square slope
array. The classical Longuet-Higgins et al (1963) method of computing directional wave
spectra and the new exact Fourier coefficients representation method (Grauzinis, 1989)
are used to compute directional wave spectra. The new method of computing directional
wave spectra, which represents bi-modal distributions of wave energy exactly matching
the measured Fourier coefficients to second order, demonstrated improved performance
over the classical technique. Phase functions between the sea surface elevation and horizontal
velocity components compared well with the results predicted by Unear wave
theory. The coherence function of the horizontal velocity components and the sea surface
elevation confirmed the dependence on the wave field directivity. Spectra of the sea
surface elevation computed from pressure and horizontal velocity data compared well
using linear theory transfer functions.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Oceanography
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School
Identifiers
NPS Report Number
Sponsors
Funder
Format
74 p.
Citation
Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.