Tide-level and bottom-friction effects on wave refraction as determined by numerical wave refraction procedures
Farrell, Charles Augustus, Jr.
Jung, Glenn H.
MetadataShow full item record
Numerical wave refraction programs permit a detailed study of the transformation of wave energy as waves move from deep water to shallow water. By eliminating the subjectivity that is present with hand drawn diagrams the effect of small variations in the initial assumptions and wave conditions can be investigated. The effects of wave refraction of tide level changes and bottom friction are investigated here. It is demonstrated that a uniform increase in water level as would be caused by tidal fluctuations can cause a significant change in the wave refraction pattern for a given nearshore region. A computing procedure in developed to permit numerical refraction programs to account for bottom friction. The reduction in wave height caused by bottom friction depends primarily on bottom slope; this relation is shown in tabular and graphical form.
RightsThis publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Fabrice, Ardhuin (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 2001-09);The transformation of surface gravity waves propagating through shallow regions is investigated with extensive field data from the North Carolina continental shelf. A spectral energy balance equation is derived for a ...
Coll Florit, Guillermo. (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 2009-09);Projecting naval forces in littoral areas requires a thorough understanding of the environmental processes that take place in those areas, especially ocean wave evolution, and the associated surf and wave-driven currents. ...
Hendrickson, Eric J. (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1996-03);The effects of wave refraction and damping on swell propagation across a wide continental shelf were examined with data from a transect of bottom pressure recorders extending from the beach to the shelf break near Duck, ...