Naval Postgraduate School
Dudley Knox Library
NPS Dudley Knox Library
View Item 
  •   Calhoun Home
  • Theses and Dissertations
  • 1. Thesis and Dissertation Collection, all items
  • View Item
  •   Calhoun Home
  • Theses and Dissertations
  • 1. Thesis and Dissertation Collection, all items
  • View Item
  • How to search in Calhoun
  • My Accounts
  • Ask a Librarian
JavaScript is disabled for your browser. Some features of this site may not work without it.

Browse

All of CalhounCollectionsThis Collection

My Account

LoginRegister

Statistics

Most Popular ItemsStatistics by CountryMost Popular Authors

Observed kinematics of waves in the surf zone

Thumbnail
Download
Icon99Mar_Constantian.pdf (1.211Mb)
Download Record
Download to EndNote/RefMan (RIS)
Download to BibTex
Author
Constantian, Richard K.
Date
1999-03
Advisor
Herbers, T.H.C.
Metadata
Show full item record
Abstract
The observed kinematics of waves in the surf zone is examined with extensive measurements from the DUCK94 experiment. Field data used in the study were obtained from vertical stacks of bi-directional current meters and a pressure sensor mounted on a rigid frame at 3 locations along a cross-shore transect in depths of 2,4, and 8m. Observed pressure and velocity spectra are compared to transfer functions based on linear finite depth theory and a simple nonlinear model that accounts for harmonic generation in shallow water. At high frequencies, the observed vertical aftenuation of horizontal velocity spectra in 8 and 4m depth is much weaker than predicted by linear theory and generally in good agreement with the nonlinear model predictions. In 2m depth, differences between the linear and nonlinear transfer function are small and both predictions are in reasonable agreement with the observed weak vertical decay. At infragravity frequencies in shallow water depths, observed velocity spectra often show significant vertical decay that is not predicted by either model. Velocity and pressure spectra measured in 4m depth are in good agreement with the nonlinear transfer function. Pressure spectra levels at high frequencies are shown to be significantly reduced by the nonlinear Bernoulli term in the second order pressure field. Analysis of the slopes of the high-frequency tails of the observed velocity spectra shows considerable scatter with a general tendency for spectra to flatten as waves rotate through the surf zone.
URI
https://hdl.handle.net/10945/13591
Collections
  • 1. Thesis and Dissertation Collection, all items

Related items

Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.

  • Thumbnail

    Spectral energy balance of waves in the surf zone 

    Russnogle, Noel R. (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1998-03);
    The spectral energy balance of waves in the surf zone is examined with extensive measurements from the Duck94 experiment. Cross-shore energy flux gradients are estimated from spectra observed with closely spaced pressure ...
  • Thumbnail

    Propagation speeds of ocean surface waves in shallow water 

    Sarap, Nick A. (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1999-03);
    Nonlinear effects on the dispersion relation of waves in shallow water are examined with measurements collected on a mild sloping sandy beach during the recent Sandy Duck experiment. Four arrays of bottom pressure sensors ...
  • Thumbnail

    Spectra of turbulent fluctuations over ocean waves 

    Bingham, Glann Stevenson (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1972-09);
    Spectral analyses are performed on turbulence data obtained over natural ocean waves during BOMEX. Results are obtained for variance and co-variance spectra, phase and coherence relationships, and amplitude ratios. ...
NPS Dudley Knox LibraryDUDLEY KNOX LIBRARY
Feedback

411 Dyer Rd. Bldg. 339
Monterey, CA 93943
circdesk@nps.edu
(831) 656-2947
DSN 756-2947

    Federal Depository Library      


Start Your Research

Research Guides
Academic Writing
Ask a Librarian
Copyright at NPS
Graduate Writing Center
How to Cite
Library Liaisons
Research Tools
Thesis Processing Office

Find & Download

Databases List
Articles, Books & More
NPS Theses
NPS Faculty Publications: Calhoun
Journal Titles
Course Reserves

Use the Library

My Accounts
Request Article or Book
Borrow, Renew, Return
Tech Help
Remote Access
Workshops & Tours

For Faculty & Researchers
For International Students
For Alumni

Print, Copy, Scan, Fax
Rooms & Study Spaces
Floor Map
Computers & Software
Adapters, Lockers & More

Collections

NPS Archive: Calhoun
Restricted Resources
Special Collections & Archives
Federal Depository
Homeland Security Digital Library

About

Hours
Library Staff
About Us
Special Exhibits
Policies
Our Affiliates
Visit Us

NPS-Licensed Resources—Terms & Conditions
Copyright Notice

Naval Postgraduate School

Naval Postgraduate School
1 University Circle, Monterey, CA 93943
Driving Directions | Campus Map

This is an official U.S. Navy Website |  Please read our Privacy Policy Notice  |  FOIA |  Section 508 |  No FEAR Act |  Whistleblower Protection |  Copyright and Accessibility |  Contact Webmaster

Export search results

The export option will allow you to export the current search results of the entered query to a file. Different formats are available for download. To export the items, click on the button corresponding with the preferred download format.

A logged-in user can export up to 15000 items. If you're not logged in, you can export no more than 500 items.

To select a subset of the search results, click "Selective Export" button and make a selection of the items you want to export. The amount of items that can be exported at once is similarly restricted as the full export.

After making a selection, click one of the export format buttons. The amount of items that will be exported is indicated in the bubble next to export format.