A nonlinear wave shoaling model for alongshore varying Bathymetry

Abstract

This thesis proposes an improvement to present near-shore wave prediction models. Using weakly dispersive Boussinesq theory, the shoaling of directionally spread surface gravity waves over a beach with gentle gradients in the cross-shore and alongshore directions is examined. Following Herbers and Burton (1997), the governing fluid flow equations are expanded to third order and depth-integrated over the water column. A resulting amplitude evolution equation for a spectrum of waves is derived, which is the main result of this paper. New terms in the higher order result include effects due to alongshore bottom slope, higher order cross-shore depth variations, and non-linear quartet interactions. The linear terms in this equation are verified by analytical methods using linear finite depth theory. Example computations for a monochromatic wave train over a plane beach quantify some of the improvements of this result over the lower order model. Opportunities for further development and verification of this result are proposed, and recommendations for application of the result in its present form are outlined.