Wave-induced water particle motion measurements
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Authors
Krapohl, Richard Francis
Subjects
Water particle motion
Spectral measurements
Linear wave theory
Power spectra
Random description of sea surface
Spectral measurements
Linear wave theory
Power spectra
Random description of sea surface
Advisors
Thornton, Edward B.
Date of Issue
1972-12
Date
December 1972
Publisher
Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
Language
en_US
Abstract
Simultaneous measurements of wave height and two orthogonal water particle velocities were made at six elevations in nineteen meters of water using a penetrating wave staff and an electromagnetic flowmeter. Moderate swell and low wind conditions prevailed during the experiment. The measured wave-induced velocities were two to four percent greater than those predicted using linear wave theory.
Coherence of the wave height and wave-induced velocities in the significant energy-density range was computed to be over 0.85, indicating that the motion was almost totally wave induced. At higher frequencies it was apparent that the motion was primarily turbulence. Phase spectra computed for
the measured wave heights and orbital velocities compared very well with linear theory. Measured frequency distributions were compared to both Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions using the chi-squared goodness-of-fit test. Qualitatively, the Gram-Charlier distribution gave the better fit to the data.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Oceanography
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School (U.S.)
Identifiers
NPS Report Number
Sponsors
Funder
Format
Citation
Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
Rights
This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.