Swell prediction by a multiple point-source swell generation model
Loading...
Authors
Kauffman, Carl F.
Subjects
swell origin
swell prediction
swell propagation
wave forecasting
wave attenuation
swell prediction
swell propagation
wave forecasting
wave attenuation
Advisors
Thompson, Warren C.
Date of Issue
1973-03
Date
March 1973
Publisher
Monterey, CA; Naval Postgraduate School
Language
eng
Abstract
A method was developed for forecasting swell using a
spectral wave-generation model based on a multiple point-source
concept of swell origin. The multiple point-source
concept considers that the peak-energy swell emanating from
a moving cyclonic storm can be considered to have been produced
at one or more space- time point sources in the storm
by the impulsive introduction of energy into the sea. The
method was tested on five North Pacific storms generating
swell recorded at Monterey, California. Predicted swell
heights, which were made for two storms, were significantly
lower than the observed heights. The time of occurrence of
the predicted peak height agreed with that observed for the
swell from one storm, but differed by about ten hours for
the other. Predictions of the dominant swell period were
accurate to within about one second over the entire range
of observed periods for all storms.
Type
Thesis
Description
Series/Report No
Department
Oceanography (OC)
Organization
Naval Postgraduate School (U.S.)
Identifiers
NPS Report Number
Sponsors
Funder
Format
Citation
Distribution Statement
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
Rights
This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.