Swell prediction by a multiple point-source swell generation model

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Author
Kauffman, Carl F.
Date
1973-03Advisor
Thompson, Warren C.
Second Reader
Wickham, J.B.
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Show full item recordAbstract
A method was developed for forecasting swell using a
spectral wave-generation model based on a multiple point-source
concept of swell origin. The multiple point-source
concept considers that the peak-energy swell emanating from
a moving cyclonic storm can be considered to have been produced
at one or more space- time point sources in the storm
by the impulsive introduction of energy into the sea. The
method was tested on five North Pacific storms generating
swell recorded at Monterey, California. Predicted swell
heights, which were made for two storms, were significantly
lower than the observed heights. The time of occurrence of
the predicted peak height agreed with that observed for the
swell from one storm, but differed by about ten hours for
the other. Predictions of the dominant swell period were
accurate to within about one second over the entire range
of observed periods for all storms.
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