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Swell prediction by a multiple point-source swell generation model

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Author
Kauffman, Carl F.
Date
1973-03
Advisor
Thompson, Warren C.
Second Reader
Wickham, J.B.
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Abstract
A method was developed for forecasting swell using a spectral wave-generation model based on a multiple point-source concept of swell origin. The multiple point-source concept considers that the peak-energy swell emanating from a moving cyclonic storm can be considered to have been produced at one or more space- time point sources in the storm by the impulsive introduction of energy into the sea. The method was tested on five North Pacific storms generating swell recorded at Monterey, California. Predicted swell heights, which were made for two storms, were significantly lower than the observed heights. The time of occurrence of the predicted peak height agreed with that observed for the swell from one storm, but differed by about ten hours for the other. Predictions of the dominant swell period were accurate to within about one second over the entire range of observed periods for all storms.
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This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.
URI
http://hdl.handle.net/10945/16836
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  • 1. Thesis and Dissertation Collection, all items

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