Kinematics of breaking waves in the surf zone : emphasizing analysis of identified and classified breakers.

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Author
Hulstrand, Victor Sandiford
Date
1977-03Advisor
Thornton, Edward B.
Second Reader
von Schwind, Joseph J.
Metadata
Show full item recordAbstract
Measurements were made of the water level fluctuations and horizontal
water particle velocities in breaking waves. The breaking
waves were identified and classified. The mean value of the height
of breaking to depth of breaking was calculated and found to be
0.86 for a composite of the waves measured; the mean ratio values
for collapsing, plunging and spilling were 0.84, 0.87 and 0.90, respectively.
Probability distributions were plotted for wave heights
and horizontal velocities and qualitatively compared with Rayleigh
distributions; the wave distributions fit well but velocity did not.
The spectra of wave profile and horizontal velocity were calculated
and indicated a narrow banded data set. The coherence values between
horizontal water particle velocities and wave profile were generally
high, indicating that the horizontal particle velocities measured
were highly wave-induced. The phase shift at the peak energy frequency
was about 40° which suggested the presence of reflected waves.
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