Kinematics of surf zone breaking waves : measurement and analysis.

Download
Author
Galvin, James Joseph
Date
1975-09Advisor
Thornton, Edward B.
Second Reader
Von Schwind, Joseph J.
Metadata
Show full item recordAbstract
Simultaneous measurements of water surface fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in a line perpendicular to the direction of wave approach extending across the surf zone were taken in varying surf conditions at two locations. The spectral velocities calculated using linear theory as a transfer function underestimated measured values by 79-86% at the peak of the spectrum. The coherence values were generally low indicating non-linear and turbulent conditions. Strong harmonics in the spectra of the waves and water particle velocities further suggest a non-linear system. The theoretical phases computed using linear theory did non accurately predict the observed phases. In general breaking waves can be characterized as a strongly non-linear wave phenomenon. Measured frequency distributions were compared with both Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions by using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. Qualitatively, the Gram-Charlier distribution gave the better fit to the flow velocity data.
Rights
This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.Collections
Related items
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
-
High speed linear induction motor efficiency optimization
Johnson, Andrew Peter (Monterey California. Naval Postgraduate School, 2005-06);One of the reasons linear motors, a technology nearly a century old, have not been adopted for a large number of linear motion applications is that they have historically had poor efficiencies. This has restricted the ... -
Cast iron versus creativity: fostering balanced thinking in military professionals
Laplante, Michael H. (Monterey, California: Naval Postgraduate School, 2015-06);This research explores how the framing of tasks affects an individual’s psychological employment of thinking-style balance in performing those tasks. The methodology utilizes multivariant experimentation with military ... -
Teaching the applications of optimisation in game theory's zero sum and non-zero sum games
Fox, William P. (Inderscience, 2010);We apply linear and non-linear programming to find the solutions for Nash equilibriums and Nash arbitration in game theory problems . Linear programming was shown as a viable method for solving mixed strategy zero-sum ...