Wave and surf forecast model evaluation for use on a micro computer.
Devendorf, Lee Earl
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A sea swell and surf model is implemented, tested and evaluated on a micro computer (HP-9845B) . The two-dimensional model includes spectral wind-wave generation in open water, and shallow water wave transformation over irregular topography. The model predicts surf zone width, breaker lines and types of breakers. Using change in momentum flux of gravity waves (radiation stress) as forcing, the model predicts current velocities within the surf zone. The model is evaluated for the conditions over constant depths and uniform sloping beaches. The numerical results are checked against accepted theory and field observations. The model is found to overbuild wind generated sea heights for a 30 kts wind but to give expected wave heights for a 15 kts wind. The model results compare well with observed nearshore wave heights but give poor location of breaking waves. The model's nearshore current calculation is found unsuitable for the HP-9 845B due to computational instability and time requirements. The sources of the model's problems are identified, and recommendations are made for future improvements of the model.
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