Comparison of measured and transformed directional wave spectra using linear refraction model.
Khalid, Mohammad Asmatullah
Thornton, Edward B.
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Deep water directional wave spectra, measured by a NDBC 3-meter buoy off Monterey Bay, are transformed to shallow water using the linear refraction model by Dobson (1967). The transformed directional spectra are compared with measured spectra using pressure gauge arrays in shallow water at Marina and Santa Cruz. Refraction (Kr) , shoaling (Ks) and Jacobian (J) transfer functions are computed. The modeling results and measured wave data at Marina are in good agreement for easterly waves at high frequencies. On the other hand, the linear refraction model gives highly variable values of wave solutions at Santa Cruz. It is believed that the unrealistic wave results at Santa Cruz are associated with the complex bathymetry of Monterey Bay. The present work examines the accuracy and limitations of linear refraction model by field observations.
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