Wave slopes and breaking distributions in the surf zone
Jorgensen, Carther Frederic.
Thornton, Edward B.
Thomas C. Lippmann.
MetadataShow full item record
Field measurements from a cross-shore array of nine pressure sensors, spanning the surf zone, are used to examine the evolution of ensemble averaged wave face slopes of ocean waves as they propagate through the breaking region. Averaged wave slopes are determined from time series of the measured sea surface elevation and from an averaged waveform calculated from bispectral coefficients, and compared with predictions from a wave transformation model that includes wave breaking described by rollers. Measured percent wave breaking are used to examine the evolution of third moment and bispectral statistics in relation to breaking patterns. Shoaling waves gradually transform from peaked, Stokes-like waves to forward pitched asymmetric waves just prior to breaking. Inside the surf zone, wave asymmetry is modified by the breaking distributions and the effects of bottom topography. The observations suggest a relationship between the cross-shore wave breaking distributions and wave slopes. Wave slopes predicted using a calibrated wave transformation model which includes wave rollers are in qualitative agreement with measured wave slopes.
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Borbash, Matthew I. (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1998-06);The evolution of the frequency-directional wave spectrum, E(f,theta), across the inner continental shelf and beach was examined with measurements collected at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineer's Field Research Facility during ...
Kinematics of breaking waves in the surf zone : emphasizing analysis of identified and classified breakers. Hulstrand, Victor Sandiford (1977-03);Measurements were made of the water level fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in breaking waves. The breaking waves were identified and classified. The mean value of the height of breaking to depth of ...
The Modulation of the Subtropical and Extratropical Atmosphere in the Pacific Basin in Response to the Madden-Julian Oscillation Moore, Richard W.; Martius, Olivia; Spengler, Thomas (2010-07);The 40-yr ECMWF Re-Analysis (ERA-40) data are combined with a number of novel climatologies to conduct a comprehensive examination of the response of the subtropical and extratropical atmosphere over the Pacific basin ...