Infragravity rip current pulsations
MacMahan, Jamie H.
Thornton, Edward B.
Stanton, Timothy P.
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The origins of rip current pulsations within the infragravity frequency band (0.004–0.04 Hz) are determined from measurements made with arrays of colocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed on a beach with persistent rip current channels. The observations indicate significant energy in cross-shore infragravity velocities that varies spatially in the alongshore due to the presence of rip channels. Infragravity velocities are smaller within the rip channel than on the shore-connected shoal owing to differences in water depth. Rip current pulsations at infragravity frequencies are linked to standing infragravity motions but not to the ponding and subsequent release of water by wave group pumping.
The article of record as published may be located at http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002068
RightsThis publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States.
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Evangelidis, Dimitrios (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1996-06);The variability of infragravity frequency (0.004-0.04 Hz) motions on a wide continental shelf was examined with data from a 100km long transect of bottom pressure recorders extending from the beach (6m depth) to the shelf ...
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