Infragravity rip current pulsations
MacMahan, Jamie H.
Thornton, Edward B.
Stanton, Tim P.
MetadataShow full item record
The origins of rip current pulsations within the infragravity frequency band (0.004–0.04 Hz) are determined from measurements made with arrays of colocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed on a beach with persistent rip current channels. The observations indicate significant energy in cross-shore infragravity velocities that varies spatially in the alongshore due to the presence of rip channels. Infragravity velocities are smaller within the rip channel than on the shore-connected shoal owing to differences in water depth. Rip current pulsations at infragravity frequencies are linked to standing infragravity motions but not to the ponding and subsequent release of water by wave group pumping.
The article of record as published may be located at http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002068
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Reniers, A.J.H.M.; MacMahan, J.H.; Thornton, E.B.; Stanton, T.P. (2005);A non-linear shallow water wave model operating on the time-scale of wave groups is compared with measurements of infragravity motions on a rip-channel beach to verify the model concepts and assess the model performance. ...
Evangelidis, Dimitrios (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1996-06);The variability of infragravity frequency (0.004-0.04 Hz) motions on a wide continental shelf was examined with data from a 100km long transect of bottom pressure recorders extending from the beach (6m depth) to the shelf ...
Abdelrahman, Saad M. M. (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1986-09);The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short ...