"Scores dead in Smerdesh": a micro-study of intercommunal violence and international intrigue in Ottoman Macedonia
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Kristalopigi is a place few would pass and even fewer visit. Tucked to the north of the sleepy lake town of Kastoria, Kristalopigi comprises a handful of houses that straddle a dual carriageway to and from a lonesome customs post along the Albanian-Greek frontier. Henry Noel Brailsford, a British nurse, journalist and activist who toured the area in 1903, described it as "a gloomy and forbidding place, built of stone upon a gaunt hillside in a narrow valley where the sun shines no more than three hours in a day."