NPS logo Naval Postgraduate School
Dudley Knox Library
        View Item 
        •   Calhoun Home
        • Theses and Dissertations
        • 1. Thesis and Dissertation Collection, all items
        • View Item
        •   Calhoun Home
        • Theses and Dissertations
        • 1. Thesis and Dissertation Collection, all items
        • View Item
        • How to search in Calhoun
        • My Accounts
        • Ask a Librarian
        JavaScript is disabled for your browser. Some features of this site may not work without it.

        Browse

        All of CalhounCollectionsThis Collection

        My Account

        LoginRegister

        Statistics

        Most Popular ItemsStatistics by CountryMost Popular Authors

        Spectral energy balance of waves in the surf zone

        Thumbnail
        View/Open
        Iconspectralenergyba00russ.pdf (2.331Mb)
        Download Record
        Download to EndNote/RefMan (RIS)
        Download to BibTex
        Author
        Russnogle, Noel R.
        Date
        1998-03
        Advisor
        Herbers, Thomas H.C.
        Second Reader
        Thornton, Edward B.
        Metadata
        Show full item record
        Abstract
        The spectral energy balance of waves in the surf zone is examined with extensive measurements from the Duck94 experiment. Cross-shore energy flux gradients are estimated from spectra observed with closely spaced pressure sensors. Nonlinear energy exchanges between different wave components in the spectrum are estimated from observed bispectra based on Boussinesq theory for near-resonant triad interactions. Dissipation of wave energy in file poorly understood breaking process is inferred as the residual term in the spectral energy balance. Analysis of the spectral energy balance shows that large decreases in energy flux observed at the dominant wave frequencies as waves break over a sand bar are closely balanced by nonlinear energy transfers to higher frequencies. That is, the decay of the spectral peak within the surf zone is a result of nonlinear energy transfers rather than direct dissipation. At higher frequencies, observed energy flux gradients are small and do not balance the nonlinear transfers of energy to high frequency components of the spectrum. This analysis suggests that the spectrum is saturated at high frequencies, and thus, file energy that cascades through nonlinear interactions to higher frequencies is dissipated in the high-frequency tail of file spectrum
        Description
        Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited
        URI
        http://hdl.handle.net/10945/8992
        Collections
        • 1. Thesis and Dissertation Collection, all items

        Related items

        Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.

        • Thumbnail

          Nonlinear transformation of directional wave spectra in shallow water 

          Abreu, Manuel A. (Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1991-09);
          A shallow water, nonlinear spectral wave transformation model is developed for conditions of a mild sloping bottom (u = vh/kh < 1) and small amplitude effects ( c = n/h < 1). Nonlinearities and combined shoaling and ...
        • Thumbnail

          Energetics of breaking waves within the surf zone 

          Thornton, E.B. (American Geophysical Union, 1979-08-20);
          Surface elevations and velocities were measured for a variety of breaking wave conditions including collapsing, plunging, and spilling breakers. Turbulent and wave-induced velocity components are separated by associating ...
        • Thumbnail

          Spectral growth of hurricane generated seas 

          Finlayson, William Scott (1997);
          The characteristics of a growing sea during hurricanes are significantly different from those observed in ordinary storms since the source of energy generating waves is moving and the rate of change of wind speed is very ...
        Feedback

        411 Dyer Rd. Bldg. 339
        Monterey, CA 93943

         

        circdesk@nps.edu
        (831) 656-2947
        DSN 756-2947

        Start Your Research

        • Research Guides
        • How to Cite
        • Search Basics
        • Ask a Librarian
        • Library Liaisons
        • Graduate Writing Center
        • Thesis Processing Office
        • Statistics, Maps & More
        • Copyright at NPS

        Find & Download

        • Databases List
        • Articles, Books & More
        • NPS Theses
        • NPS Faculty Publications: Calhoun
        • Journal Titles
        • Course Reserves

        Use the Library

        • My Accounts
        • Request Article or Book
        • Borrow, Renew, Return
        • Remote Access
        • Workshops & Tours
        • For Faculty & Researchers
        • For International Students
        • For Alumni
        • Print, Copy, Scan, Fax
        • Rooms & Study Spaces
        • Floor Map
        • Computers & Software
        • Adapters, Lockers & More

        Collections

        • NPS Archive: Calhoun
        • Restricted Resources
        • Special Collections & Archives
        • Federal Depository
        • Homeland Security Digital Library

        About

        • Hours
        • Library Staff
        • About Us
        • Visit Us

        NPS-Licensed Resources - Terms & Conditions

        Copyright Notice

         
         

          Federal Depository Library  

        NPS Home Privacy Policy Copyright Accessibility Contact Webmaster