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dc.contributor.authorNorheim, Craig A
dc.date.accessioned2012-08-09T19:23:55Z
dc.date.available2012-08-09T19:23:55Z
dc.date.issued1997-03
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10945/9012
dc.description.abstractBoussinesq-type equations for weakly nonlinear, weakly dispersive waves have been used extensively to model wave shoaling on beaches. Deterministic Boussinesq models cast in the form of coupled evolution equations for the amplitudes and phases of discrete Fourier modes (Freilich and Guza, 1984) describe the shoaling process accurately for arbitrary incident wave conditions, but are numerically cumbersome for predicting the shoaling evolution of continuous spectra of natural wind-generated waves. Here an alternative stochastic formulation of a Boussinesq model (Herbers and Burton, 1996, based on the closure hypothesis that phase coupling between quartets of wave components is weak) is implemented that predicts the evolution of a continuous frequency spectrum and bispectrum of waves normally incident on a gently sloping beach with straight and parallel depth contours. The general characteristics of the model are examined with numerical simulations for a wide range of incident wave conditions and boflom profiles. Stochastic and deterministic Boussinesq model predictions are compared to field observations from a cross-shore transect of bottom pressure sensors deployed on a barred beach near Duck, NC, during the recent DUCK94 Experiment Predictions of the two models are similar and describe accurately the observed nonlinear shoaling transformation of wave spectraen_US
dc.description.urihttp://archive.org/details/astochasticmodel109459012
dc.language.isoeng
dc.publisherMonterey, California. Naval Postgraduate Schoolen_US
dc.subject.lcshSTOCHASTIC PROCESSESen_US
dc.titleA stochastic model for shoaling wavesen_US
dc.contributor.secondreaderThornton, E.B.
dc.contributor.departmentOceanography
dc.subject.authorBoussinesq Equationsen_US
dc.subject.authorFinite Depth Theoryen_US
dc.subject.authorOcean Surface Gravity Wavesen_US
dc.subject.authorNonlinear Interactionsen_US
dc.subject.authorShoalingen_US
dc.subject.authorBeachen_US
dc.subject.authorWave Modelen_US
dc.description.serviceLieutenant, United States Navyen_US
etd.thesisdegree.nameM.S. in Physical Oceanographyen_US
etd.thesisdegree.levelMastersen_US
etd.thesisdegree.disciplinePhysical Oceanographyen_US
etd.thesisdegree.grantorNaval Postgraduate Schoolen_US
dc.description.distributionstatementApproved for public release; distribution is unlimited.


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