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dc.contributor.advisorThornton, Edward B.
dc.contributor.advisorStanton, Timothy
dc.contributor.authorHolt, Robert D.
dc.dateJune 2003
dc.date.accessioned2012-03-14T17:30:08Z
dc.date.available2012-03-14T17:30:08Z
dc.date.issued2003-06
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10945/972
dc.descriptionApproved for public release, distribution is unlimiteden_US
dc.description.abstractRip current spacings are compared with wave energetics and directional spreading in the Southern Monterey Bay. Southern Monterey Bay affords a unique environment to study rip currents owing to their prevalence created by near-normally incident waves on a sandy shoreline. It is hypothesized that rip current spacing is a function of wave directional spreading and energy flux, based on the morphodynamic modeling by Reniers et al. 2003. A gradient of wave energy flux exists due to headlands and refraction over Monterey Canyon. Rip currents are shown to occur between cusps in the shoreline, allowing cusp spacing to be a surrogate for rip spacing. Rip current spacing was inferred from beach morphology surveys, LIDAR imagery, and Argus cameras, and found to be O(150m) at Sand City and O(300m) at Marina, separated by 6km . Measured waves during a two month period using wave-rider buoys, show a gradient of across-shore energy flux between Sand City, 2 28000( / ) F Jm x . , and Marina, 2 33000( / ) F Jm x . . The two sites have the same peak directional spreading of energy value, 14 peak ̤= o , and slightly different bulk values for Sand City, 18 bulk ̤= o , and Marina, 20 bulk ̤= o . Therefore, the variations in rip current spacing could not be attributed to directional spreading but appear related to variations in energy flux.en_US
dc.description.urihttp://archive.org/details/ripcurrentspacin10945972
dc.format.extentxiv, 65 p. : ill. (some col.)en_US
dc.publisherMonterey, California. Naval Postgraduate Schoolen_US
dc.rightsThis publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. As such, it is in the public domain, and under the provisions of Title 17, United States Code, Section 105, may not be copyrighted.en_US
dc.subject.lcshOceanographyen_US
dc.subject.lcshPacific Oceanen_US
dc.subject.lcshOcean currentsen_US
dc.titleRip current spacing in relation to wave energetics and directional spreadingen_US
dc.typeThesisen_US
dc.contributor.departmentOceanography
dc.subject.authorOceanographyen_US
dc.subject.authorNearshoreen_US
dc.subject.authorRip currentsen_US
dc.subject.authorDirectional spreadingen_US
dc.subject.authorBeach cuspsen_US
dc.subject.authorCoastal video imagingen_US
dc.description.serviceEnsign, United States Naval Reserveen_US
etd.thesisdegree.nameM.S. in Physical Oceanographyen_US
etd.thesisdegree.levelMastersen_US
etd.thesisdegree.disciplinePhysical Oceanographyen_US
etd.thesisdegree.grantorNaval Postgraduate Schoolen_US
etd.verifiednoen_US


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